Wednesday, April 15, 2015

DRCC Deep Cut Crimps

NOTE:  Based on feedback received from this review, DRCC has renamed this set – Deep Cut Crimps, taken them out of the Jugs category on their website, and has updated the description to better reflect the difficulty of these holds.



The DRCC Crimp Jugs ($69.95) are a set of 13 1-1.5 pad incut crimps that feature the comfortable grip texture contrasted with a mirror like dual texture.  For crimps of this size, they are surprisingly comfortable.  They feature as large a grip radius as we feel is possible while maintaining their positivity.  All but the largest of the holds are not matchable, which makes forcing a sequence easy.  Also, several of the holds have a concave shape that will require some precision when used as feet.  This set would be a great choice for competition setting.
                                

First of all, there is absolutely nothing juggy about these holds – NOTHING.  They are moderately positive crimps – no larger than 1.5 pads but the majority of them are about 1 pad.  Not only is the name misleading, but this set is listed in the Jug category on DRCC’s website…  The description states: “Incut enough to equip beginner routes on vertical walls and some stellar V4s and up on the steep boulders”.  We do not agree with this statement.  Even on vertical terrain, the easiest you can expect with this set is 5.10.  The easiest we could set on the 20 degree wall was a V3.  “Steep” means different things to different people, but without volumes on the 50 degree wall, you are looking at V7 and up.  But moving on…

The most positive of the whole set!
The DRCC easily takes the crown for the best dual textured holds on the market – slick as snot and so shiny you would expect to see your reflection in them.  Any overhang at all will make the slick portions absolutely useless as feet.  However, cap head bolts protrude beyond the hold surface on the smaller crimps, and could be used as an unintended foot or even as a marginal thumb catch.  We recommend button head bolts for the smaller holds.  The DRCC pours in standard Aragon colors and provides color matching at no extra cost.  If monochromatic setting does not concern you, the DRCC offers some unique swirling and color layering by request.  Customer service is great and since they pour their holds in house, order turnaround time is nice and quick!

                                

We have set with DRCC holds quite a bit in our gym, and the plastic is relatively brittle.  Crank down on them too hard and they are prone to cracking, especially on an uneven surface.  However, The DRCC has largely mitigated this issue by utilizing a rubber backing.  It creates more friction with the wall so you do not have to tighten them down so much and risk cracking the hold.  Having said that, we cranked down on one of them as tight as it could possibly go on the flat wall – no cracks.  The rubber backing also protects sharp edges from chipping when dropped.  It is optional, but well worth the modest price increase ($4).  It would serve the customer well for DRCC to make this rubber backing standard on all orders.  You can even choose the color of the rubber back (which also match Aragon colors) for an additional $2!  All but the smallest crimps in the set feature a predrilled, counter sunk set screw hole with an embedded washer.  We tried our best to crack one by being overly aggressive in placing the set screw, but the counter sink kept that from happening.  Yet another measure the DRCC has taken to mitigate potential breakage issues.  Well done!


Overall, we recommend this set, but suggest a change of name and categorization on the website to reflect their true nature.  The rubber backing improves them in so many ways, and we strongly suggest paying a little extra for it.  They are straight up comfortable crimps with great directionality, aesthetic and value.  

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